La Habana submarina

La Habana submarina

Excepto las urbes muy jóvenes que se levantan sobre terrenos sin vestigios de asentamientos anteriores, las ciudades son en general una acumulación de ciudades sucesivas, aunque a veces no queden muchos rastros debajo de las nuevas construcciones. Pero también son la superposición de ciudades imaginarias, de visiones de un mismo sitio, de modos diferentes de vivir un espacio.

Como también hay ciudades en el tiempo. Hubo un San Cristóbal de La Habana entre murallas y fortalezas para no caer más entre el incendio y la destrucción de los que codiciaban sus tesoros, y hubo una Habana extramuros, sin cesar creciente y mundana, que en el siglo XIX gozaba de una enorme ponderación y que ya sobre 1920 no existía, como se queja Jorge Mañach en sus Estampas de San Cristóbal. En esos años, cuentan, el teósofo Jinarajadasa hacía una de sus giras por Las Antillas y, habiendo atracado en el puerto de La Habana, se negó a bajar del barco a las calles, perturbado por el aura oscura que dijo ver, densa, sobre la ciudad. Y hubo la rauda y expansiva Habana de los 50. Y aunque todas ellas han desaparecido perduran, a no dudarlo, por aquí o por allá en esta Habana de hoy.

En definitiva, una ciudad debe ser eso: un cúmulo de infinitas ciudades simultáneas, tangibles para unos e invisibles para otros.

Hay una Habana que se extiende bajo el sol y hay una Habana submarina —entre otras— a la que, vestigio sobre vestigio, sólo llegan restos y casi nunca esperanzas sin roer, intactas. En medio de su espeso silencio acuático todo se disuelve rápidamente o se corroe con el salitre y los microscópicos males de lo profundo, en medio de un légamo transparente, mas enceguecedor.

Nací lejos de La Habana y en los días antes de venir a vivir en ella alguien me aseguraba, en broma, que para llegar había que pasar por debajo del mar. Yo era muy niño todavía y estuve luego todo el viaje  aguardando el tremendo milagro de atravesar el fondo del mar en automóvil, con los peces nadando cerca de los cristales, de manera que entrar en el túnel de la bahía resultó una gran desilusión.

Aunque siempre había vivido cerca del mar, después he tenido la sensación de vivir, acaso, en el mar, casi bajo el mar. Mi compulsiva pasión marina me hizo soñar con hombres peces y con Ictiópolis —una ciudad submarina que imaginé bajo la maldición de un intenso silencio y con una historia que quisiera alguna vez saber narrar. Quizás no elucubraba, sino que estaba viendo una Habana tendida en el fondo de su propio océano, bajo un firmamento de noctilucas y medusas fosforescentes, con sus restos de naufragios; sedente y apacible (salvo en contadas ocasiones), con sus interminables historias de ahogados y sus transeúntes con severas expresiones de ahogados. Con su eterna pretensión de salir a la superficie.

Con su antiguo entusiasmo, en fin, de Nuevo Mundo —y de Ciudad del Sol, de Nueva Atlántida y, por supuesto, de Utopía, para hablar de la tríada de novelas utópicas; con su incesante destino de hallarse siempre en la mira y en la ruta de piratas, emperadores, aventureros, estafadores, quijotes, robinsones, traficantes de todo, caudillos, trashumantes, negreros, libertadores, juglares, buscones, enamorados, perseguidos y perseguidores, alucinados y alucinadores, utópicos y utópatas de toda laya durante quinientos años. Y sigue la baraja.

Sin embargo, en estas Cartas sólo quiero hablar de mi Habana personal. Para qué pretender otra cosa. Esa ciudad sumergida en sí misma y en el fondo de mí, a la que llegué a través de una imaginaria travesía submarina que no termina aún, y que fue llegar a un laberinto de infinitas dimensiones, donde todo se disuelve y se transforma en medio de un agua centelleante.

Cada noche, desde hace siglos, suena desde lo alto de la fortaleza de La Cabaña, a la entrada de la bahía, un cañonazo que señala las nueve en punto y que, en un principio, indicaba la hora en que se cerraban las puertas de la ciudad amurallada. Hoy no existen ya esas puertas ni esas murallas en torno a San Cristóbal de La Habana. Pero el cañonazo continúa sonando puntualmente, atravesando, como en un haz, ese cúmulo de infinitas ciudades simultáneas, tangibles para unos, invisibles para otros.

Fotografía: Juan Pablo Estrada

Esta entrada tiene 964 comentarios

  1. Una desacostumbrada percepción de La Habana, que no enjuicia sus transformaciones urbanas y humanas, sino que las celebra con el natural desenfado de quien visita un acuario por primera vez. Para los habaneros nacidos en esta ciudad, es revelador que los habaneros venidos de lejos nos reinterpreten esa visión gastada que tenemos de ella.
    La foto de Juan Pablo es excelente cómplice del discurso de Santana.

  2. Amigo solo tu para hacer esos malabares con las palabras y dejarnos sumergidos en esa Habana de mar y rocas, callejuelas y columnas que ya solo exite en nuestra memória..

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